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Doin’ the Charleston

Edmund Marsh

I WROTE RECENTLY about my wife’s lifelong love of traveling, and of my resolve to get in step with her as she resumes her rambles. To that end, earlier this summer, I drove our family to Charleston, South Carolina, to attend the retirement ceremony for my cousin Chris, and to see a bit of the city, to boot.

As our departure time approached, we learned that the original schedule for retirement day had been altered. Chris advised my wife that he understood if we wanted to change our plans. She assured him she wouldn’t miss an event that got her stay-at-home family—my daughter and me—to travel somewhere, anywhere, and especially to Charleston. She’s enamored of the city, but for years has been unsuccessful at enticing me to accompany her there for a tour. Chris’s big day was just the lure to get me out of the house and into the car.

After a morning drive from our home near Atlanta, we began our Charleston excursion with a tour of the U.S.S. Yorktown, a World War II-era aircraft carrier resting permanently at Patriots Point. We explored the ship from engine room to captain’s chair, including a stroll on the flight deck to investigate the variety of aircraft on display. Along the way, we tried to imagine the sailors and naval aviators at work in dangerous locations far removed from the quiet of Charleston Harbor.

The next day was devoted to helping Chris and his friend Matt say so long to the United States Air Force in a dual retirement ceremony. Their lives have been intertwined for years. They graduated college together and were commissioned as Air Force officers on the same day. After spending much of their 22 years of active and reserve service together, they were now sharing their retirement date. They even fly for the same commercial airline.

Retirement day for the two friends began with a final flight down the South Carolina coast, accompanied by a hand-picked crew of Air Force comrades. Back on the ground at Joint Base Charleston, family and friends stood on the flightline to watch the men maneuver their C-17 for a last flyover as military pilots. After they landed and following the traditional drenching of the pilots with ice water, all were invited aboard to see this remarkable aircraft.

Inside the plane, faces were beaming, including those of the retiring pilots. I knew Chris was looking forward to retirement from the Air Force, but he told me his feelings were “bittersweet.” Later, at the actual ceremony, I caught a glimpse of what he meant. As their service records were recounted, it dawned on me that these men were part of history. They’d risked their lives to save the lives of others while participating in a long list of military and humanitarian missions.

Some of the missions were secret, but one made the headlines. In August 2021, the reservists of Charleston’s 701st Airlift Squadron of C-17s played a big role in the U.S. effort to move Afghan refugees out of harm’s way. Tens of thousands of lives were saved, and one life breathed her first breath aboard an airplane in flight from Kabul to Qatar. My family had the opportunity to speak with Leah, the C-17 loadmaster who helped deliver the baby girl. As she recounted the evacuation, my thoughts again turned to the serious nature of the jobs that military men and women take in stride as part of their workday.

Even in civilian life, tough work is often easier when the load is shared among friends. Demanding jobs that help others can also bring great satisfaction. Research shows that camaraderie and sense of purpose are the two aspects of the work world that retirees miss the most. Research also shows this is especially true for military veterans, who are particularly vulnerable to feelings of loss after separating from organizations where collaboration, teamwork and trust sometimes mean life or death. I hope Chris’s and Matt’s tenure as reservists, with one foot in the Air Force and the other in the mundane world the rest of us occupy, helps ease their transition.

On our final morning in Charleston, the Marsh family sallied forth from the visitor center on a four-mile jaunt that looped down King Street to White Point Gardens, then around the Battery and Rainbow Row.  Along the way, the ladies window-shopped Louis Vuitton, Gucci and other high-end stores, while I reminded them that the best sights were still ahead. The real draw for us all was the distinctive Charleston architecture, with beautiful gardens nestled between homes that date from as early as the mid-18th century.

To prepare for the drive home after our stroll, we had planned to lunch at highly recommended Hyman’s Seafood, but opted instead for tasty Thai food served directly across Meeting Street from the iconic restaurant. No matter. I’ll add great Charleston seafood to my list of reasons to revisit this charming city.

Ed Marsh is a physical therapist who lives and works in a small community near Atlanta. He likes to spend time with his church, with his family and in his garden thinking about retirement. His favorite question to ask a young person is, “Are you saving for retirement?” Check out Ed’s earlier articles.

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SCao
1 year ago

Thanks for sharing. Happy travel, Ed!

Marjorie Kondrack
1 year ago

Interesting and upbeat, Edmund. Your articles always convey a positive message, and your comments, in general relay just the right tone.
Are you and Andrew Forsythe related?

Edmund Marsh
1 year ago

Not that I’m aware, but I’m very honored at even the hint I could keep company with Andrew. I would certainly claim him kin.

David Lancaster
1 year ago

My wife and I visited Charleston in May of 22. If people are considering going I would highly recommend the Gullah Tour with Alphonso Brown to learn about the culture of these people. Unfortunately we missed the opening by one year of their International African American Museum which has received rave reviews.

Edmund Marsh
1 year ago

Thanks for the recommendation. My father used to talk of listening to the “Geechee talk” that he heard while growing up near Savannah. There are still pockets of semi-distinct African American cultures that are not as well-known. They are part of the mix that makes up the South.

Sonja Haggert
1 year ago

Ed, so glad you enjoyed the trip. I hope there will be more in your future.

Edmund Marsh
1 year ago
Reply to  Sonja Haggert

Sonja, my wife assures me that your hopes will be realized! Thanks for the encouraging words.

Michael1
1 year ago

Ed, from the title I expected mostly a travel article and was enthusiastic to read it. I went to college in Charleston and really enjoyed being there. Next time you go, you might catch a Friday afternoon parade at The Citadel or roast some oysters, as well as venture out of the city into the low country. 

I didn’t expect the story of your cousin’s retirement from the air force, also interesting. I’m sure it is bittersweet for him. Leaving the army was for me as well. It brought to mind Jonathan’s article a week or so ago on things we lose when we retire. 

Glad you got to go and experience both the city and a connection to our military. 

Edmund Marsh
1 year ago
Reply to  Michael1

Michael, thanks for your thoughtful comments. To be honest, the possibility of a travel article was on my mind as we drive east toward the city. Chris’s comment about his feelings struck a chord with me as I contemplate my own retirement, and sparked the thoughts that I expressed.

The list of attractions in Charleston is too long for one trip. My wife’s first visit included a visit to the Citadel and is a strong memory for her. Your mention of an oyster roast brings back memories of oysters sizzling on the metal sheet laid over a backyard fire. It was a holiday tradition while growing up near the coast in north Florida. I miss it.

jerry pinkard
1 year ago

Our daughter moved to Charleston in 1995 and has raised her family there. We consider it our 2nd home as we have spent a lot of time there. There are many great and iconic sites to visit, and many great restaurants. Charleston is still the Old South, and what makes it so great are the people.

mytimetotravel
1 year ago
Reply to  jerry pinkard

What exactly does the “Old South” mean to you?

Edmund Marsh
1 year ago
Reply to  jerry pinkard

Jerry, I agree. We left wanting more.

mytimetotravel
1 year ago

Glad to read that you had a great – and interesting – trip. Will it tempt you to travel a bit further next time?

However, while Charleston has some beautiful buildings, as a corrective to the Tourist Bureau’s carefully crafted image, might I suggest reading “Charleston: Race, Water and the Coming Storm“?

Edmund Marsh
1 year ago
Reply to  mytimetotravel

One step at a time, Kathy.

Rick Connor
1 year ago

Edmund sounds like a great trip. My wife and I spent our anniversary last year in Charleston and it enjoyed it very much. The retirement Ceremony sounds amazing. I’m happy for your cousin and Matt. Maybe I’ll fly with them someday.

Edmund Marsh
1 year ago
Reply to  Rick Connor

Thanks, Rick. It was a very nice short trip, and the ceremony made a great memory to share. From the skill the men displayed in maneuvering that huge aircraft, I would definitely feel safe(er) with one of them in the cockpit!

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