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I LOVE TO TRAVEL—and it runs in the family. My parents were avid travelers, with my father receiving a generous travel allowance from his work every four years.
In addition, my father always managed his time and budget for numerous other trips. After his passing, my brother and I took turns maintaining the travel tradition with our mom, until plans were disrupted by the pandemic.
After retiring this year, I eagerly anticipated visiting my mother in India and taking her on a grand tour. I’d considered several options, ranging from an African safari to a leisurely tour of Vietnam. I called my mother to finalize our plans.
To my surprise, she wasn’t as enthusiastic as I’d hoped. In her late 70s, she was uncertain about traveling overseas because of her chronic back pain and lack of confidence in her strength. I was disappointed but didn’t give up. I continued searching for suitable options that might work for her.
I vaguely recalled hearing about luxurious train tours of India that were popular with foreign tourists. It dawned on me that, while my mother had been to most of India’s tourist spots, she might be interested in a fresh and unique experience. With renewed hope, I opened my laptop to research luxury train travel in India.
My search revealed several such trains that attract affluent retirees from around the world. These tours cater to people with mobility challenges, or to those who might feel uneasy traveling in India on their own.
Just like a small-group luxury cruise, these trains provide a hassle-free, all-inclusive experience with a focus on safety, care and comfort. A common theme across these different trains was a hefty price tag, quite steep by Indian standards.
My mother was intrigued and seemed open to the idea, particularly because she loved traveling by train. Adding to the allure, my aunt—who I’ve written about in a previous article—was able to join us. Without further hesitation, I made a reservation before they could change their minds.
A train named Deccan Odyssey looked promising, but I struggled to find reliable contact information due to changes in ownership after the pandemic. I took a chance and reached out to the most intuitively named website. It turned out to be one of the tour’s few authorized agents.
Soon, a real person contacted me with a price quote. Since we were three passengers, I opted for the pricier suite, rather than a regular cabin for two. The cost—even with a low-season discount—was steep enough to give me pause, but I overcame my reluctance, figuring that money is only valuable when used to fulfill deeply personal goals, such as sharing a once-in-a-lifetime experience with people closest to my heart.
Everything was arranged in time and, on a pleasant March afternoon, we departed from Kolkata and headed to New Delhi, the starting point of our tour. Sadly, the train tour itself got off to a rough start.
We arrived at the designated train station in New Delhi at 5 p.m. as instructed, only to find that the train was delayed due to an emergency. The company tried to make the wait more bearable by providing refreshments and live entertainment to the passengers.
The train eventually arrived after 10 p.m., and the staff promptly assisted all passengers with boarding. Inside, the train was absolutely stunning, like a miniature five-star hotel on wheels. A personal butler and an attendant guided us to our suite and gave us an overview of the amenities.
Our suite featured a bedroom with a twin bed, another room with a sofa bed and writing desk, and two ensuite bathrooms with showers. The rooms had panoramic windows, blackout curtains, beautiful decor and fresh flowers. It was beyond anything we’d imagined.
It was time for dinner, so we headed to the onboard restaurant through a series of plush, carpeted corridors and elegantly decorated coaches. The restaurant’s impeccable service and gourmet menu could rival any fine-dining experience in an upscale hotel.
We enjoyed our sumptuous dinner and headed back to our suite. The tour manager soon came by to introduce herself and offer another sincere apology for the unexpected delay. “We’ll make up for the inconvenience,” she said.
We all slept soundly that night, thanks not only to the long and tiring wait, but also to the soothing, rhythmic motion of the train. The next morning, as we gazed at the tranquil landscape outside our windows, someone knocked at the door. It was our butler with morning tea and the attendant to make our beds.
We reached Agra, the city of the Taj. Stepping off the train onto the carpeted platform reserved for us, we were greeted with fresh garlands and a tilaka on our foreheads. A small troupe of artists danced to the folk tunes of the shehnai and dhol, transforming the platform into a ceremonial stage.
Our private guide led us to our SUV for the daylong city tour. Our first destination was the Taj Mahal. Although my mother and aunt had seen it before, it was my first time visiting. The site was very crowded. Only after we got inside could I see why it’s called one of the Seven Wonders of the World.
We had a fabulous lunch at a posh restaurant. My mother, feeling a bit worn out, suggested that we stick to the less strenuous sights in the afternoon. After our sightseeing, the car dropped us at the train station entrance, where our butler and a security guard were waiting to walk us back to the train. The dinner that evening featured local specialties.
The next day, we reached Sawai Madhopur, the gateway to the Ranthambore National Park. At the station, we experienced another welcoming ceremony, this time reflecting the culture of the state of Rajasthan. We then boarded a safari vehicle and entered the tiger reserve, where we saw an abundance of birds and animals. We were also fortunate to spot a tiger up close, though only for a short while.
The next few days flew by as we traveled across four states in a week. Each morning, we arrived at a new place, relished the grand reception and set out for our excursions. We toured the Pink City of Jaipur and drove up to the Amer Fort, marveled at the exquisite crystal collections at the City Palace of Udaipur, and enjoyed a vibrant cultural performance inside the majestic Laxmi Vilas Palace of Vadodara.
Our next destination was to visit the Ellora Caves near the city of Aurangabad. Despite the scorching sun, the wheelchair services allowed my mother and my aunt to comfortably admire the great Kailasa Temple, a remarkable monolithic rock-cut structure renowned for its intricate carvings and grand architecture.
Just as we were getting accustomed to its luxury and extravagance, our train reached its final destination of Mumbai, where another treat awaited me. Smith and Sabya, two dear friends who live in Mumbai, visited us at our hotel. We strolled down Marine Drive, savored street food, and laughed and chatted just like old times. That evening—and the entire train trip—has become one of my most treasured memories.
Sanjib Saha retired early from software engineering to dedicate more time to family and friends, pursue personal development and assist others as a money wellness mentor. Self-taught in investments, he passed the Series 65 licensing exam as a non-industry candidate. Sanjib is the president and co-founder of Dollar Mentor, a 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization offering free investment and financial education. Follow his nonprofit on LinkedIn, and check out Sanjib’s earlier articles.
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Sanjib’s accounting reminds me of the 1960s road trips dear Dad organized for us during court vacation recess(Dad practiced at the Bombay High Court for 60 years until Parkinsons felled him), We took road trips through Ahmedabad to Jaipur, Udaipur and Ajmer and south to Bangalore(now Bengaluru) and Ooty Dad drove our trusty Fiat with my brother as his second in command to change tires. Dad believed in staying in the best hotels. Memorable were Hotel Savoy in Ooty, Mandovi in Goa, Krishnarajasagar in Bangalore and Windemere in Darjeeling. Echoes of the Raj, of Maharajas and the erstwhile Portuguese. We lunched at the Lake Palace in Udaipur, where Dad(always a Socialist at heart) took his sister and her family, aware the sister could not afford the lunch on the salary of her college professor husband.
In his late 70s I brought Dad to the US so that I could take care of him. We took trips to Boston to see my daughter in college and thence to Maine. He loved Maine, which he called “Maines”. He loved this great country and used to say he wished he had emigrated here after the 1947 Partition of India, instead of to Bombay. But everyone took the ship to Bombay. And so did he.
(sorry to digress) like you, my parents fancied Paris and other French cities when I was young. I guess my parents’ upbringing from a colonial society (we are from VN) narrowed our travel scope. Until I see miles of wheat farm in Kansas and magnificent view of Big Sur in California, then I truly know there’s no other beautiful places in North America but the US of A.
Thank you for the travelogue!
Gosh, what a great story! Thank you. We spent three months earlier this year living in Madrid, and took the train to visit several other towns and cities. What a great way to travel. You see more, can read a book with ease, get up and walk around. Lovely.
Would you be asked to say exactly which tour company you went with, please?
Thank you, David. Spending a few months in Madrid sounds like a great idea. Curious – do you speak Spanish or were you able to manage with English even in the smaller towns?
There are several luxury train tour companies in India. The one I chose is here Deccan Odyssey – Wikipedia. It was originally started by the state tourism department of Maharastra, but now it’s operated by a private company.
Please see the link below shared by mytimetotravel. It has a section for the Indian Luxury Tourist trains:
Train travel in India – a beginner’s guide | How to buy tickets online (seat61.com)
I gifted myself tours to Malta and Italy and it was great to have someone handle the luggage, transportation and many meals. I’ve usually traveled on my own, made the plans and enjoyed the trips. But, in retirement, my energy goes much further on a tour. Airplane travel is problematic, crowded, noisy and uncomfortable, but I make sure I travel a day early and the time is useful to rest and recuperate.
Thanks, Mary. I don’t like air travel either, especially those cross-continent long flights. Given a choice, I’d prefer train or bus journey, even driving when possible. I just got back home after a 5-1/2 hour long flight, and my energy is completely drained sitting in the cramped economy seats.
Sanjib,
You really made a dream come true, for your mom, your aunt, and yourself. I know you’ll never forget this adventure-by-rail.
Although I traveled quite a bit in my youth, these days I’m much more of a homebody, especially as I’ve come to increasingly dislike the hassles of planes and airports. But traveling by train has a real attraction and I might need to give that some thought.
Thanks, Andrew. The experience was indeed very special for all three of us.
I’ve taken multi-day train trips in US as well (I usually take roomettes on the upper floor on Amtrak trains) and enjoyed them. But it can be quite pricey compared to air travel.
Cruises are great. But, do not use the cruise line transport from the airport to the ship. There is often a long wait.
A lovely story, Sanjib. It’s wonderful that you were able to give your mother and aunt a luxurious trip they’ll never forget.
My own mother has been gone 19 years but not a day goes by that I don’t think of her.
We used to write poems to each other on special occasions. And I told her she was my treasure. She wasn’t a gushy type but she once told me I was the love of her life.The only thing that saddened me was that I did not get to give her a hundred more reasons why she had meant so much to me.
You will be blessed for the special regard and love you have shown your mother.
Thank you so much, Marjorie. It’s so wonderful that you and your mother had such a sweet and special relation that you cherish forever.
Sounds like a great trip! Thanks for the report, brought back some memories.
I rode a lot of trains in India in 2001 and again in 2010, but I wasn’t willing to pay the price for the tourist trains, so my experience was rather different! On the other hand, I got to spend longer at each destination (I visited the Ajanta as well as the Ellora caves, and Fatehpur Sikri as well as the Taj, for instance), and I got to meet a lot of local people. The regular trains have a several different classes, including three with AC. I actually preferred second class AC to first class, as I met more “regular” people, instead of government and business types.
For loads of info about train travel in India, including the tourist trains, go here.
That’s a great resource – thanks a lot for sharing.
Most of my India train trips in recent years have been in AC first class. I find it very convenient when traveling in a group of 3-4 persons, especially for overnight journeys. The long-distance train experience in India has changed over the years. Many nostalgic experiences from my childhood are no longer possible (e.g., local vendors are no longer allowed to sell food inside the train compartments due to newer regulations). Hence the fun of traveling in the regular classes is diminished for me.
I was traveling solo, and I found AC2 more interesting, although of course AC1 was quieter. It’s amazing how well such a huge system works, but I hope they have cleaned up the stations as well as improving the rolling stock. I’ve ridden the narrow-gauge train up to Darjeeling, but I’d like to go back and ride the one up to Simla.
I’ve done one cross-US train trip, coming back across Canada, but Amtrak is not solo friendly. If you want a sleeper you have to pay for a double instead of sharing with another random passenger as you can on most other systems.
Wow! You took the Darjeeling train trip? That’s so amazing. I took it with my parents in my schooldays, and I remember it being a fun experience. I want to do this again.
There’s another similar trip in Ooty, but it was shorter and I didn’t find it as exciting as the Darjeeling one. Ooty Toy Train (Ticket Cost, Booking, Timings & Route) – Ooty Tourism
I wish Amtrak was a bit easier on the pocket for solo travelers. I took the roomette a couple of times, and I was traveling alone. It was nice but too pricey :(.
What great memories, and unforgettable experiences. Well done, Sanjib.
Thank you, David.
Sanjib,
That was a great story! And you are a great Son too!
Thanks so much, Winston.
Thanks, Sanjib, that was a great article. Our daughter was an exchange student in India when she was 12 and visited many of the sites you mentioned. We would like to see them, too. Chris
Thank you, Chris. I was surprised to see how much the travel infrastructure has improved in India for foreigners. I’d highly recommend visiting, in an escorted group tour if needed.
Travel infrastructure – both road and rail – has improved significantly over the past decade. The next few months the weather will be tolerable too.
On the other hand, I spent several weeks traveling solo in both 2001 and 2010. I’m female, and I wouldn’t feel as comfortable going solo today.