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The first time I sat down for dinner with Joey’s family in the Philippines, I did what I had always done at a restaurant: I picked up the menu and started deciding what I wanted to eat. I soon realized I had it all wrong. Nobody was ordering their dinner. Dishes were being chosen for the table, passed around and shared by everyone.
It was a small moment, but I didn’t forget it. In the years since, I’ve come to see that first meal as my introduction to something I would encounter again and again in the Philippines: a culture where sharing, family and generosity often seem to matter more than what belongs to any one person.
At first, I thought I was simply learning the customs of another country. Over time, I realized I was learning something about its people.
One morning, I watched construction workers making their way to a building site. They walked together, talking, smiling and laughing. In one photograph I took, a worker has his arm draped over the shoulder of the man beside him. There was an easy camaraderie that caught my attention. They weren’t just heading to the same workplace. They were heading there together.
On Valentine’s Day, Joey and I visited a park where a restaurant and food stalls had been set up. As we walked from the parking lot, a family we had never met invited us to share their meal. We were complete strangers, yet they simply offered us a place at their table.
I’ve also accumulated photographs with people I’ve met at hotels, restaurants and even the barbershop. In many, I’m standing with my arm around someone who, not long before, had been a stranger. They weren’t simply anonymous people providing a service before disappearing from my life. There was a warmth to these encounters that made me want a photograph with them, and the feeling seemed mutual. They touched my heart, and I didn’t want to forget them.
Even a delayed flight became part of the lesson. A taxi driver we had used before agreed to meet us at the airport. Our flight arrived an hour late, but he was still there.
Waiting was inconvenient, but he had made a commitment and kept it. We continued using him whenever we needed a driver. A business transaction had become something more personal: loyalty returned with loyalty.
I also noticed the respect and courtesy shown to others, particularly elders. I frequently heard po, a word added to conversation as a sign of politeness and respect. These were small gestures, but I began to realize it was precisely the small gestures I was noticing most.
None of this means money doesn’t matter. Filipinos have mortgages and medical bills, need to put food on the table and worry about their financial futures just as the rest of us do. Financial security can relieve many of those worries. It can provide a comfortable home, good food, travel and choices. I’m grateful for those choices.
But money can’t make someone invite a stranger to share a meal. It can’t manufacture the friendship between two workers walking onto a construction site. And it can’t make a taxi driver keep his word when waiting has become inconvenient.
I spent much of my working life learning how valuable money could be. Retirement, and especially my time in the Philippines, has been teaching me about everything money can’t buy: family, friendship, respect, keeping your word, sharing your dinner, putting an arm around a coworker’s shoulder and making a stranger feel welcome.
Years ago, I tried to capture some of what I was experiencing in a poem I called Land of Smiles. I wrote:
You feel in your heart a warmth,
Bringing to you a feeling
That this could be home.
At the time, they were simply words describing how a place halfway around the world made me feel.
Today, they mean something more.
Perhaps what makes somewhere home isn’t owning property there. Maybe it’s the moment when the people who live there stop making you feel like a stranger.
I think some of my most abiding memories when travelling come from a few weeks spent backpacking in China about 30 years ago.
Like having people come and stand and stare when I was eating in the buffet car because they’d never seen a Westerner using chopsticks before (and no doubt my dexterity did not quite measure up to their standards).Or individuals shyly approaching me on a park bench and asking if they could sit and talk to practise their English. I learnt so much about the (educated) everyman/woman’s perspective on their country and their hopes and their curiosity about the world beyond China.
It’s no surprise to me that they have subsequently become some of the world’s foremost international tourists.
We ultimately have more in common than differences.
What wonderful memories. I especially like your last sentence. Travel has a way of stripping away our preconceived notions and reminding us that, despite differences in culture, language and circumstances, we share many of the same hopes and curiosities.
Often it’s those simple encounters with ordinary people, not the tourist attractions, that stay with us the longest.
Such beautiful reflections, Andrew. Thanks.
Not ever having been to Asia, I am continually impressed by the apparent warmth of the people in a favorite TV show, Cycle Around Japan. Seeing it has made the Japanese fans’ consideration for others at the recent FIFA World Cup games all the more relatable.
Thank you so much. I think that consideration for others is one of the things that can be so striking when we experience another culture. The customs may be different, but kindness, respect and generosity are universal. Travel has certainly taught me to pay more attention to those small gestures, they often tell us far more about a people than the places we visit.
Andrew, beautiful description of a people and culture that most of us know little about. It’s a good lesson in taking the time to learn and observe the customs and culture of new places we visit and people we encounter.
I am going on a tour this fall to India, a place I know little about but have always been fascinated by. I’ve been reading guide books and speaking with Indian people I know and meet (as well as eating at Indian restaurants to familiarize myself to the food) to understand more about the culture and customs…primarily so I will have a better experience as I meet the l people of this huge nation. Yes, the tour will probably insulate us from some of the day to day struggles of the population but I will try to experience the country as genuinely as I can and hope to have positive experiences as you’ve described in the Philippines.
Hope you have a great time in India. An easy way to meet people is to ride a train (but not a commuter train).
Thank you for taking the time to read my article. I think you’re approaching India exactly the right way. I spent part of my childhood living in Bangladesh and also had the opportunity to visit India, and those experiences taught me early on how much we can learn by observing and trying to understand a culture rather than judging it through our own lens. India is an extraordinary country of contrasts, and I suspect the people you meet may become as memorable as the places you visit. I hope you have a wonderful trip.