Several observations after talking to many people about Medicare:
Those on Original Medicare often know very little about specific Advantage plans. Their comments are usually along the lines of: “You’re rolling the dice,” “You have limited choices,” “You need pre-approvals,” or “I’ve heard stories…” — though none of those stories are ever local.
When I explain the best Advantage options, the typical response is, “You must be missing something.”
Everyone in my circle managed to find a good broker who placed them in one of the top Advantage plans. It’s really not that complicated, and about half have switched to Advantage over the years.
None of them regret the decision — several have even gone through surgeries or cancer treatments without issues. Most of these people's age is 75 to late 80s. That means they have used Medicare for many years already
Those who’ve managed their money well over the decades, have sufficient savings, and invest the difference tend to do even better.
Like most types of insurance, Medicare is a local issue — it’s worth doing the research.
There is no deductible. There are certain things that cost more.
Primary dr = $0
Specialists are a flat $20
Surgery=$415 flat
CT/MRI from $190 to $325
Cancer is the big one; you pay 20% of the cost for chemo, radiology, and others. I know several who had cancer and only paid the MOOP. MOOP = max out of pocket
Garbage was a relative term.
HMOs have limited providers, and that's why I never look at them.
PPOs are the ones you look for. Then, I added all my doctors, who are the best in our town...and only several plans remained.
The chances you will find great Advantage plans in small cities are much lower. How can I spend $300K in one year? If a procedure falls under Medicare, it is available under Original and Advantage.
My MOOP (max out of pocket) is $6700. I know a couple that switched to Original after their Advantage was cancelled without underwriting for Medigap. The county 20 miles from us doesn't include our Advantage. Use your imagination.
Good article, but it’s too generic to apply to everyone.
In certain large cities, Medicare Advantage can be much better. In my county alone, there are over 60 Advantage plans. Around 90% of them are garbage — but the top plans from Aetna and Humana are excellent.
I’ve been on Humana PFFS for three years now — it’s the only one available in the county. With this plan, I can see any provider or get any procedure anywhere in the U.S., with the same cost whether in or out of network.
Here’s what my plan looks like:
Monthly premiums: $0
Primary care visits: $0
Specialists (anywhere in the U.S.): $20, no referral needed
Dental: $2,500 annual coverage with zero deductible
Vision: $550 toward eye exams and glasses
OTC (Over-the-Counter) allowance: $1,000 per year
Gym: Free (my local LA Fitness normally costs over $500 a year)
Medication: I’m on Repatha, and they found a way for me to pay $0
Max Out-of-Pocket (MOOP): $6,700 — which rarely happens
Now compare that to Original Medicare + Plan G: Three years ago, low-deductible Plan G was $145/month. In 2026, it’ll be $206 — a 33% increase. Add the annual deductible ($257) and Plan D, and you’re looking at around $250/month.
In my case, annual prescriptions would cost about $2,100, bringing the total to roughly $5,000 out-of-pocket per year. If you’re lucky and your prescriptions are cheap, it’s still around $3,500–$3,800 per year.Now let’s do the math for 2025: This year, I paid nothing for all the benefits listed above.
Ten specialist visits = about $200 (I had only 4 in 2025, 1 out of net)
Other prescriptions = $200
One surgery = $415 (flat cost, no bills or payment discussions). The hospital was out of network.
New glasses with premium lenses = $0 (saved $550)
Dental = already used $2,100
OTC allowance = already spent $1,000
Total out-of-pocket for 2025: roughly $900 So, compared with Original Medicare, I’m ahead by:
$5,000 - $900 = $4,100 saved, or
$3,500 - $900 = $2,600 saved if prescriptions are cheaper
Add in the extra plan benefits (OTC $1,000 + Dental $2,500 + Gym $500 = $4,000), and we’re talking at least $6,000 in total value.
That extra $6,000, when invested at 8% annually, becomes more than $150,000 over time. I’ll take that deal any day. Bonus tip: If your Advantage plan is canceled, you can return to Original Medicare without underwriting — a nice loophole most people don’t know about. The best plans may get cancelled; the worst stay. Many people I know have been on one of the top 2–3 Advantage plans in our county for years. They all use the same broker, who manages close to 1,000 Advantage clients. According to him, the highest out-of-pocket cost any of them ever paid was about $2,000. My wife is on the same plan. Together, we’ve probably saved around $300,000 over 15 years. So yes, there are plenty of scary stories out there — and some are true — but not all Advantage plans are bad or inferior. The key is finding one of the good ones. In our case, it’s been absolutely worth it. BTW, the savings, including making money already, are over $25K.
It's already 7.5 years, not 5. In that period, I avoided all the meltdowns, and each was different.
I have been doing it since 2000, for over 25 years. I have only practiced timing for about 10 years. From 01/2000 to 01/2010, the SP500 lost close to 10% over 10 years, while I made so much more, mainly with SGIIX, FAIRX, and OAKBX.
See it https://www.portfoliovisualizer.com/backtest-portfolio?s=y&sl=1k1TcbYfx6XfU1esa14pwr
This is why I retired years earlier. Over the past 30 years, 2008 was the only year I had a loss — that was when I was invested mostly in stocks and didn’t apply my timing approach. Even then, my loss was much smaller than the S&P 500’s 37% drop, and international stocks fell over 40%.
From 2010 to 2018, as I prepared for retirement, my stock allocation trailed the S&P 500 by about 1% annually. For anyone diversified with international, value, or small-cap stocks, performance was roughly the same.
My bond holdings, however, told a different story. I invested heavily in one fund — PIMIX — which performed far better than the bond index fund BND. In January 2018, I sold PIMIX and never bought it again.
When I retired in 2018, I calculated that I needed about 6% annual returns to live comfortably for the rest of my life. I ended up earning nearly twice that — all through a portfolio composed of 95% special, unique bond funds. I’ve shared that performance before.
While the S&P 500 is a great index, very few investors hold only that.
Bonds — my specialty — have significantly outperformed BND, whose annualized returns have been disappointing:
Last 5 years: –0.1%
Last 10 years: 1.9%
Last 15 years: 2.3%
That’s a poor record.
So, while I encourage most people to invest in index funds and hold for the long term, there are other possibilities. Managing a retirement portfolio is more challenging — it’s easy if you have a pension or a large nest egg, but most people don’t.
That means many retirees need to keep a high percentage in stocks. Those who retired around 2000 and relied heavily on equities often had to go back to work — and that could happen again.
I’ve read thousands of articles and research papers, and most come to the same conclusion: work longer. I believe there are other answers. None of them are easy, but they’re still better than working for many more years. I’ve helped several of my less fortunate friends find that path — for free.Lastly, I'm a retiree with enough money.
It’s not about how much I can make — it’s about how much I don’t want to lose. That’s why I don’t worry at all.
If stocks drop 50% or more, why would I sit still and watch my portfolio fall 25–30%?
I have heard about HIGH valuation since 2012 when Prof. Shiller said that US stocks are overvalued according to CAPE and EM stocks should be better. The opposite happened
Many meltdowns didn't occur because of overvaluations:
2008=MBS fiasco
2018=3-4 rate increase
2020=Covid
2022: The Fed started to raise rate rapidly
2025: Tariffs will create inflation = didn't happen Does market timing work?
It took me 10 years to get it "right" and it works great since retirement in 2018.
If risk is "normal" my portfolio is invested at 99+%. In high risk = 99+% in MM. See the proof https://ibb.co/zT6QGzSs
After 25 years our GE range broke.
I bought a new one. See the link above.
The official price was $600. I opened a Lowe's credit card and the price went to $500.
We have been using it over a week and it's great
Can I spend another $1000 on a range and get little in return? Sure, but why? BTW, after 2 months I will close the CC. This way I will get another $100 discount next time I will open another one
Comments:
I have done several transfers and always used in-kind., which means never in cash. Our CD/MM/CASH has been under 0.5% for decades, unless I'm out at 99+% in Schwab MM.
I have been using timing pretty well over the years because I decided many years ago to search it. It took me "only" 10 years to master it.
I'm right about 60%. When I'm wrong, I'm out for about up to one week. When I'm right, I'm out for several weeks to months.
Schwab has 99+% of all the money we have, including all brokers, banks, and credit unions.
See
2025: https://ibb.co/Xr7SJXq4
2022: https://ibb.co/xKxHBszK
2020: https://ibb.co/NvgmZgG Performance since retirement in 2018: https://ibb.co/zT6QGzSs If you never try other methods, you will never find them.
Consumer Reports has rated Sub-Zero as one of the worst appliance selections for many years. Add the very high price, and it's a huge no.
Appliances, electronics, and vehicles are where you can find great choices for great prices.
Comments
Several observations after talking to many people about Medicare:
Post: Don’t make the wrong Medicare decision
Link to comment from October 27, 2025
Kaiser is my city has limited and not great choices for specialists and hospitals. We had couple of friends on Kaiser and all switched.
Post: Don’t make the wrong Medicare decision
Link to comment from October 27, 2025
There is no deductible. There are certain things that cost more. Primary dr = $0 Specialists are a flat $20 Surgery=$415 flat CT/MRI from $190 to $325 Cancer is the big one; you pay 20% of the cost for chemo, radiology, and others. I know several who had cancer and only paid the MOOP. MOOP = max out of pocket
Post: Don’t make the wrong Medicare decision
Link to comment from October 26, 2025
Garbage was a relative term. HMOs have limited providers, and that's why I never look at them. PPOs are the ones you look for. Then, I added all my doctors, who are the best in our town...and only several plans remained. The chances you will find great Advantage plans in small cities are much lower. How can I spend $300K in one year? If a procedure falls under Medicare, it is available under Original and Advantage. My MOOP (max out of pocket) is $6700. I know a couple that switched to Original after their Advantage was cancelled without underwriting for Medigap. The county 20 miles from us doesn't include our Advantage. Use your imagination.
Post: Don’t make the wrong Medicare decision
Link to comment from October 26, 2025
Good article, but it’s too generic to apply to everyone. In certain large cities, Medicare Advantage can be much better. In my county alone, there are over 60 Advantage plans. Around 90% of them are garbage — but the top plans from Aetna and Humana are excellent. I’ve been on Humana PFFS for three years now — it’s the only one available in the county. With this plan, I can see any provider or get any procedure anywhere in the U.S., with the same cost whether in or out of network. Here’s what my plan looks like:
- Monthly premiums: $0
- Primary care visits: $0
- Specialists (anywhere in the U.S.): $20, no referral needed
- Dental: $2,500 annual coverage with zero deductible
- Vision: $550 toward eye exams and glasses
- OTC (Over-the-Counter) allowance: $1,000 per year
- Gym: Free (my local LA Fitness normally costs over $500 a year)
- Medication: I’m on Repatha, and they found a way for me to pay $0
- Max Out-of-Pocket (MOOP): $6,700 — which rarely happens
Now compare that to Original Medicare + Plan G: Three years ago, low-deductible Plan G was $145/month. In 2026, it’ll be $206 — a 33% increase. Add the annual deductible ($257) and Plan D, and you’re looking at around $250/month. In my case, annual prescriptions would cost about $2,100, bringing the total to roughly $5,000 out-of-pocket per year. If you’re lucky and your prescriptions are cheap, it’s still around $3,500–$3,800 per year. Now let’s do the math for 2025: This year, I paid nothing for all the benefits listed above.- Ten specialist visits = about $200 (I had only 4 in 2025, 1 out of net)
- Other prescriptions = $200
- One surgery = $415 (flat cost, no bills or payment discussions). The hospital was out of network.
- New glasses with premium lenses = $0 (saved $550)
- Dental = already used $2,100
- OTC allowance = already spent $1,000
Total out-of-pocket for 2025: roughly $900 So, compared with Original Medicare, I’m ahead by:- $5,000 - $900 = $4,100 saved, or
- $3,500 - $900 = $2,600 saved if prescriptions are cheaper
Add in the extra plan benefits (OTC $1,000 + Dental $2,500 + Gym $500 = $4,000), and we’re talking at least $6,000 in total value. That extra $6,000, when invested at 8% annually, becomes more than $150,000 over time. I’ll take that deal any day. Bonus tip: If your Advantage plan is canceled, you can return to Original Medicare without underwriting — a nice loophole most people don’t know about. The best plans may get cancelled; the worst stay. Many people I know have been on one of the top 2–3 Advantage plans in our county for years. They all use the same broker, who manages close to 1,000 Advantage clients. According to him, the highest out-of-pocket cost any of them ever paid was about $2,000. My wife is on the same plan. Together, we’ve probably saved around $300,000 over 15 years. So yes, there are plenty of scary stories out there — and some are true — but not all Advantage plans are bad or inferior. The key is finding one of the good ones. In our case, it’s been absolutely worth it. BTW, the savings, including making money already, are over $25K.Post: Don’t make the wrong Medicare decision
Link to comment from October 26, 2025
It's already 7.5 years, not 5. In that period, I avoided all the meltdowns, and each was different. I have been doing it since 2000, for over 25 years. I have only practiced timing for about 10 years. From 01/2000 to 01/2010, the SP500 lost close to 10% over 10 years, while I made so much more, mainly with SGIIX, FAIRX, and OAKBX. See it https://www.portfoliovisualizer.com/backtest-portfolio?s=y&sl=1k1TcbYfx6XfU1esa14pwr This is why I retired years earlier. Over the past 30 years, 2008 was the only year I had a loss — that was when I was invested mostly in stocks and didn’t apply my timing approach. Even then, my loss was much smaller than the S&P 500’s 37% drop, and international stocks fell over 40%. From 2010 to 2018, as I prepared for retirement, my stock allocation trailed the S&P 500 by about 1% annually. For anyone diversified with international, value, or small-cap stocks, performance was roughly the same. My bond holdings, however, told a different story. I invested heavily in one fund — PIMIX — which performed far better than the bond index fund BND. In January 2018, I sold PIMIX and never bought it again. When I retired in 2018, I calculated that I needed about 6% annual returns to live comfortably for the rest of my life. I ended up earning nearly twice that — all through a portfolio composed of 95% special, unique bond funds. I’ve shared that performance before. While the S&P 500 is a great index, very few investors hold only that. Bonds — my specialty — have significantly outperformed BND, whose annualized returns have been disappointing:
- Last 5 years: –0.1%
- Last 10 years: 1.9%
- Last 15 years: 2.3%
That’s a poor record. So, while I encourage most people to invest in index funds and hold for the long term, there are other possibilities. Managing a retirement portfolio is more challenging — it’s easy if you have a pension or a large nest egg, but most people don’t. That means many retirees need to keep a high percentage in stocks. Those who retired around 2000 and relied heavily on equities often had to go back to work — and that could happen again. I’ve read thousands of articles and research papers, and most come to the same conclusion: work longer. I believe there are other answers. None of them are easy, but they’re still better than working for many more years. I’ve helped several of my less fortunate friends find that path — for free. Lastly, I'm a retiree with enough money. It’s not about how much I can make — it’s about how much I don’t want to lose. That’s why I don’t worry at all. If stocks drop 50% or more, why would I sit still and watch my portfolio fall 25–30%?Post: Is The Stock Market Overvalued?
Link to comment from October 22, 2025
I have heard about HIGH valuation since 2012 when Prof. Shiller said that US stocks are overvalued according to CAPE and EM stocks should be better. The opposite happened Many meltdowns didn't occur because of overvaluations: 2008=MBS fiasco 2018=3-4 rate increase 2020=Covid 2022: The Fed started to raise rate rapidly 2025: Tariffs will create inflation = didn't happen Does market timing work? It took me 10 years to get it "right" and it works great since retirement in 2018. If risk is "normal" my portfolio is invested at 99+%. In high risk = 99+% in MM. See the proof https://ibb.co/zT6QGzSs
Post: Is The Stock Market Overvalued?
Link to comment from October 18, 2025
After 25 years our GE range broke. I bought a new one. See the link above. The official price was $600. I opened a Lowe's credit card and the price went to $500. We have been using it over a week and it's great Can I spend another $1000 on a range and get little in return? Sure, but why? BTW, after 2 months I will close the CC. This way I will get another $100 discount next time I will open another one
Post: Have you purchased an appliance lately? Talk about sticker shock.
Link to comment from October 11, 2025
Comments: I have done several transfers and always used in-kind., which means never in cash. Our CD/MM/CASH has been under 0.5% for decades, unless I'm out at 99+% in Schwab MM. I have been using timing pretty well over the years because I decided many years ago to search it. It took me "only" 10 years to master it. I'm right about 60%. When I'm wrong, I'm out for about up to one week. When I'm right, I'm out for several weeks to months. Schwab has 99+% of all the money we have, including all brokers, banks, and credit unions. See 2025: https://ibb.co/Xr7SJXq4 2022: https://ibb.co/xKxHBszK 2020: https://ibb.co/NvgmZgG Performance since retirement in 2018: https://ibb.co/zT6QGzSs If you never try other methods, you will never find them.
Post: Told Ya So Big Dummy
Link to comment from September 28, 2025
Consumer Reports has rated Sub-Zero as one of the worst appliance selections for many years. Add the very high price, and it's a huge no. Appliances, electronics, and vehicles are where you can find great choices for great prices.
Post: Have you purchased an appliance lately? Talk about sticker shock.
Link to comment from September 21, 2025