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Vanguard’s Transfer on Death Plan Kit

"I am glad I learned of the change and that sharing the change was helpful. Best, Bill"
- William Perry
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Retirement Plan

"I got half way through it before giving up."
- Dan Smith
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Forget the 4% rule.

"That's pretty much the gist of it, and it's something I have personal experience with. Before retiring, I purchased a ten-year term annuity to cover all my essential spending — and I really can't emphasise enough the peace of mind this has given me compared to drawing down from my portfolio for those expenses. It's simply like getting a paycheck every month. No hassle, no worry. I'm now reasonably certain I'll purchase a lifetime annuity when this one matures in ten years, because of the confidence a guaranteed income gives you to actually spend."
- Mark Crothers
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Sector Fund by Stealth

I'VE RECENTLY MADE the most significant change to my own portfolio in thirty five years. For the first time I've moved away from pure market-cap investing, tilting meaningfully toward Europe and Southeast Asia and bringing my US technology concentration down to around fifteen percent. I'm retired. I don't need to chase the outperformance that concentration might deliver, and I don't need the potential volatility that comes with it. This is a personal position rather than any kind of recommendation; it's nothing more than a risk management decision made at a point in life where I simply don't need the risk. What prompted it was a growing discomfort with something I suspect many everyday investors haven't fully reckoned with: the S&P 500 is no longer quite the animal it once was. A broad market index fund casts a wide net across the economy, and the S&P 500, which tracks the 500 largest US businesses by market value, has long been held up as the sensible default: low cost, well diversified, a bet on the whole rather than any one part of it. A sector fund works differently; it makes a deliberate, concentrated bet on a specific industry. If you believe technology is going to outperform the market as a whole, it gives you the ability to concentrate your capital into exactly the sector your research or gut instinct suspects is going to be the place to be and let it run. The theory behind each is straightforward enough. A broad market fund captures a larger slice of the investment universe and is generally considered the lower-risk path. A sector fund comes with a well-understood trade-off: higher potential returns in good times, sharper drawdowns when sentiment turns. Investors who consciously choose a technology sector fund know what they're signing up for. The risk profile is understood, accepted, and priced into the decision. The problem is that the line between these two things has become a bit fuzzy, and most everyday investors haven't noticed. A handful of technology and technology-related companies (Apple, Microsoft, Nvidia, Amazon, Meta, Alphabet) have grown so dominant in their market valuations that they now represent a disproportionate share of the entire index. During the last year, the top ten holdings have accounted for roughly a third of the total weight of all 500 companies. The mechanism behind this is simply how the index works. The S&P 500 is market-cap weighted, meaning the bigger the company, the bigger its slice of the pie. As technology companies scaled their dominance through the 2010s and into the 2020s, their weight within the index ballooned accordingly. The index didn't change its rules; the market just rewarded one particular group of companies so heavily that they came to dominate the scoreboard. This means the investor who bought the S&P 500 believing they were spreading risk broadly across the American economy (energy, healthcare, financials, industrials, consumer staples) owns something that looks quite different to the story they were sold. You buy five hundred companies and a third of your money lands in ten stocks, most of them operating in the same broad technological ecosystem. That is a concentration risk, whether it is labelled as one or not. It's a sector fund “light”, acquired by stealth through the natural mechanics of market-cap weighting. The issue is that millions of everyday investors are carrying a version of that same risk without necessarily knowing it. Although I've used the S&P 500 as an example here, it isn't alone. Most broad-based indexes including developed world trackers will exhibit the same characteristics to varying degrees, because the same companies sit near the top of those indexes too. The MSCI World, often marketed as the global diversifier, allocates somewhere in the region of seventy percent to US equities, and within that, the familiar names reappear. You can cross borders on paper without ever really leaving the room. None of this is an argument against the S&P 500. The concentration reflects real, earned dominance; these companies grew to the top of the index because they genuinely deserved to. And whether my reallocation turns out to be the right call is genuinely unknowable. The concentrated index could continue to outperform for another decade and I'll have left returns on the table, a real possibility I've made my peace with. The point isn't that I've found the correct answer. The point is that I had the information to make a considered choice, weighed it against my own circumstances, and acted accordingly. That's all any investor can do. The uncomfortable truth is that a great many people haven't been given the chance to do the same. They're holding a product that has quietly changed its character, and nobody has thought to mention it. Better information doesn't guarantee better decisions, but it at least puts the decision where it belongs: with the person whose money it is. ___ Mark Crothers is a retired small business owner from the UK with a keen interest in personal finance and simple living. Married to his high school sweetheart, with daughters and grandchildren, he knows the importance of building a secure financial future. With an aversion to social media, he prefers to spend his time on his main passions: reading, scratch cooking, racket sports, and hiking.
Read more »

When Your Pastime Takes Ownership

"Clew bay, a wonderful part of the country, there's a great view from Croagh Patrick down onto the islands…I'm jealous, a much better use of a sunny day than trying to wrestle with hawthorn bushes with two inch thorns... I'm cut to pieces!"
- Mark Crothers
Read more »

Actually, Lets NOT Forget the 4% Rule – as Posted Yesterday 3/6/26

"Dan, I only listened to the first one minute of this 50 minute video. He says it perfectly in that one minute ! My impression is that people are WAY WAY over concerned about running out of money. Unless you are foolish, stupid, or have the worst luck imaginable, it seems like it’s a very hard thing to do ! There are no gold medals, not even a participation award (we are in 2026 after all ! ), for being the richest person in the graveyard."
- Mark Bergman
Read more »

Tax Smart Retirement

A POPULAR JOKE about retirement is that it can be hard work. That’s because financial planning is like a jigsaw puzzle, and retirement often means rearranging the pieces. In the past, I’ve discussed two key pieces of that puzzle: how to determine a sustainable portfolio withdrawal rate and how to decide on an effective asset allocation. But there’s one more piece of the puzzle to contend with: taxes. Especially if you’re planning to retire on the earlier side, it’s important to have a tax plan. When it comes to tax planning for retirement, there’s one key principle I see as most important, and that’s the idea that in retirement, the goal is to minimize your total lifetime tax bill. That’s important because a fundamental shift occurs the day that retirement arrives: In contrast to our working years, when taxes are, to a large degree, out of our control, in retirement, taxes are much more within our control. By choosing which investments to sell and which accounts to withdraw from, retirees have the ability to dial their income—and thus their tax rate—up or down in any given year. The challenge, though, is that tax planning can be like the game Whac-A-Mole. Choose a low-tax strategy in one year, and that might cause taxes to run higher in a future year. That’s why—dull as the topic might seem—careful tax planning is important. To get started, I recommend this three-part formula: Step 1 The first step is to arrange your assets for tax-efficiency. This is often referred to as “asset location.” Here’s an example: Suppose you’ve decided on an asset allocation of 60% stocks and 40% bonds. That might be a sensible mix, but that doesn't mean every one of your accounts needs to be invested according to that same 60/40 mix. Instead, to help manage the growth of your pre-tax accounts, and thus the size of future required minimum distributions, pre-tax accounts should be invested as conservatively as possible. On the other hand, if you have Roth assets, you’d want those invested as aggressively as possible. Your taxable assets might carry an allocation that’s somewhere in between. If you can make this change without incurring a tax bill, it’s something I’d do even before you enter retirement. Step 2 How can you avoid the Whac-A-Mole problem referenced above? If you’re approaching retirement, a key goal is to target a specific tax bracket. Then structure things so your taxable income falls into that same bracket more or less every year. By smoothing out your income in this way from year to year, the goal is to avoid ever falling into a very high tax bracket. To determine what tax rate to target, I suggest this process: Look ahead to a year in your late-70s, when your income will include both Social Security and required minimum distributions from your pre-tax retirement accounts. Estimate what your income might be in that future year and see what marginal tax bracket that income would translate to. In doing this exercise, don’t forget other potential income sources. That might include part-time work, a pension, an annuity or a rental property. And if you have significant taxable investment accounts, be sure to include interest from bonds. Then, for simplicity, subtract the standard deduction to estimate your future taxable income. Suppose that totaled up to $175,000. Using this year’s tax brackets, that would put your income in either the 24% marginal bracket (for single taxpayers) or 22% (married filing jointly). You would then use this as your target tax bracket. Step 3 With your target tax bracket in hand, the next step would be to make an income plan for each year. The idea here is to identify which accounts you’ll withdraw from to meet your household spending needs while also adhering to your target tax bracket. This isn’t something you’d map out more than one year in advance. Instead, it’s an exercise you’d repeat at the beginning of each year, using that year’s numbers. What might this look like in practice? Suppose you’re age 65, retired and not yet collecting Social Security. In this case, your income—and thus your tax bracket—might be quite low. To get started, you’d want to withdraw enough from your tax-deferred accounts to meet your spending needs but without exceeding your target tax bracket. This would then bring you to a decision. If you’ve taken enough out of your tax-deferred accounts to meet your spending needs and still haven’t hit your target tax rate, then the next step would be to distribute an additional amount from your pre-tax accounts. But with this additional amount, you’d complete a Roth conversion, moving those dollars into a Roth IRA to grow tax-free from that point forward. How much should you convert? The answer here involves a little bit of judgment but is mostly straightforward: You’d convert just enough to bring your marginal tax bracket up into the target range. Some people prefer to go all the way to the top of their target bracket, while others prefer to back off a bit. The most important thing is just to get into the right neighborhood. What if, on the other hand, you’ve taken enough from your pre-tax accounts to reach your target tax rate, but that still isn’t enough to meet your spending needs? In that case, you wouldn’t take any more from your pre-tax accounts, and you wouldn’t complete any Roth conversions. Instead, you’d turn to your taxable accounts, where the applicable tax brackets will almost certainly be lower. Capital gains brackets currently top out at just 20%. Thus, for the remainder of your spending needs, the most tax-efficient source of funds will be your taxable account. What if you aren’t yet age 59½? Would that upend a plan like this? A common misconception is that withdrawals from pre-tax accounts entail a punitive 10% penalty. While that’s true, it isn’t always true, and there’s more than one way around it. One exception allows withdrawals from a workplace retirement plan like a 401(k) as long as you leave that employer at age 55 or later. In that case, as long as you don’t roll over the account to an IRA, you’d be free to take withdrawals without penalty. If you’re retiring before age 55, you’ll want to learn about Rule 72(t). This allows for withdrawals from pre-tax accounts at any age, as long as you agree to what the IRS refers to as substantially equal periodic payments (SEPP) from your pre-tax assets. The SEPP approach definitely carries restrictions, but if you’re pursuing early retirement, and the bulk of your assets are in pre-tax accounts, this might be just the right solution.   Adam M. Grossman is the founder of Mayport, a fixed-fee wealth management firm. Sign up for Adam's Daily Ideas email, follow him on X @AdamMGrossman and check out his earlier articles.
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Home Tax Tips

IF YOU OWN a home or are planning to buy one, there are a few things you need to know from the tax standpoint that could save you money: 1. Mortgage Interest If you have a mortgage, you can typically deduct the interest you pay on the loan up to $750,000 ($1,000,000 if taken before December 16, 2017) but only if you itemize your deductions (schedule A) You can also deduct points you paid if you itemize. Many people miss deducting points on their tax returns when they purchase a house, but you have to meet some criteria like:
  1. The points relate to a mortgage to buy, build or improve your principal residence
  2. Points were reasonable amount charged in that area
  3. You provide funds (at or before closing) at least equal to the points charged
  4. The points clearly show on the settlement statement
In general, points to get a new mortgage or to refinance an existing mortgage are deducted ratably over the term of the loan.  Note that the deductible points not included on Form 1098 (the mortgage interest form) should be entered on Schedule A (Form 1040), Itemized Deductions, line 8c “Points not reported to you on Form 1098.” 2. Property taxes Property taxes can be deducted on your tax return if you itemize deductions. The total amount of taxes (including state and local income taxes) is capped at $40,400 for 2026. This cap is temporary and will increase by 1% annually through 2029 before reverting to $10,000 in 2030. If you make between $500k to $600k of modified adjusted gross income, the $40.4k deduction is reduced by 30% for each dollar you make. At $600k MAGI, the deduction drops to $10k, potentially raising marginal tax rates to 45.5% (!) for singles due to “SALT torpedo” if you are in the $500-600k range. If you are at that range, it’s recommended to mitigate this by lowering AGI/MAGI by maximizing pre-tax 401(k)/403(b), HSA, FSA contributions, timing RSU sales, tax loss harvesting, or deferring income/accelerating expenses for business owners. 3. Improvements Improvements are significant enhancements made to your home that increase its value. Many people overpay on taxes when they ultimately sell their house because they don’t keep track of these improvements. Here are some examples provided by the IRS: > Putting an addition on your home > Replacing an entire roof > Paving your driveway > Installing central air conditioning > Rewiring your home > Building a new deck > Kitchen upgrades > Lawn sprinkler system > New siding > Built in appliances > Fireplace Now, these costs aren’t deducted, but they are added to your home’s cost basis. This could lead to lower capital gains taxes when you sell your property (more on this later). Repairs, on the other hand, don’t impact your basis and don’t affect your taxes (e.g. repairing a broken fixture, patching cracks, etc) You will need to document every improvement, as this can help you save money on taxes. Keep your receipts and invoices (upload them to Google Drive) and record the dates and descriptions of the work done. Taxes when selling your house When you sell your house, here’s the formula: Selling price  > Selling expenses (like realtor fees) > Adjusted cost basis (how much you purchased it for + all these capital improvements I talked about above + any closing costs you paid when you acquired the home (legal fees, recording, survey, stamp taxed, title insurance) = Gain/Loss You will need to pay capital gains tax if there is a gain, but, luckily there is a gain exclusion (Section 121 exclusion) that can also help you save on taxes: 4. Gain exclusion If you sell your primary residence, you may be able to exclude up to $250,000 ($500,000 for married) of the gain from taxes if you meet some conditions. > Ownership (must have owned the home for at least 24 months within the 5 years prior to sale. For married couples only one spouse needs to meet this requirement) > Residence (you must have used the home as your main residence for at least 24 non-consecutive months during the 5 years before the sale. For married couples both spouses must meet requirements. > Look-back (you must not have claimed the exclusion on another home within the 2 years before this sale) Now, many people don’t know this but there is actually a partial exemption.  1. Work related move (i.e. you started a new job at least 50 miles farther from home) 2. Health related move (you moved to obtain, provide, or facilitate care for yourself or a family member) 3. Unforeseeable events (casualty, divorce, death, financial difficulty) 4. Special circumstances So, instead of claiming the full exclusion, you can exclude a prorated portion of the $250,000/$500,000 limit based on how long you owned and lived in the home. By the way, you can rent out a home for 2 years and still qualify for the exemption, as long as you lived there for the required period before selling (many people do this). 5. Tax example selling a home You bought a home for $200,000 (including all other costs) in 2018. You built a new deck, new roof and siding totaling $50,000. You now sold your home for $500,000. You are single. Selling costs are $20,000 (agent fees, etc) Sale price: $500,000 -$20,000 of selling costs (200,000 + 50,000) = -$250,000 (adjusted basis) Total Gain = 230,000 Exclusion = $250,000. Total taxes paid = $0. But what if you didn’t keep track of all your renovation costs like new siding or a deck? You would’ve had to pay taxes on $20,000 of capital gains!  Overall, knowing how these things work can literally save you thousands in taxes. Do you have any tips with homeownership? Share some in the comments!   Bogdan Sheremeta is a licensed CPA based in Illinois with experience at Deloitte and a Fortune 200 multinational.
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What is the best way to donate to charity in 2026?

"I am a gambler and in 2024 (and 2025) won a couple of jackpots that would have thrown me into a much higher tax bracket. My solution was to create a DAF via Schwab which allowed me to itemize deductions and claim my gambling losses against wins. With one simple move, I saved thousands in taxes and simplified my charitable giving. (Sadly, I do now have to pay IRMAA due to the increase in income). But it was a win/win/win situation. I have always given 10% of my income to charitable causes. That has continued in retirement. It’s my plan to exhaust the DAF over the period of 3 or 4 years and then switch my RMDs (which start this year) to QCDs."
- haliday11
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Smoke, Sparks and Retirement Spending.

"I get it. The past couple of weeks have seen a particular light fixture die and a smoke/carbon monoxide detector fail. Both of these seemingly simple repair items became "projects" in our home due to either wiring or damage issues. In particular, the light fixture needed removal and repair - not just a new bulb, and the smoke/CO detector was wired into house current but obscenely failed by beeping at all hours of the day/night. Luckily, I have both the time and the skills to address these without calling a repairman. As I written in HD before, enjoy the challenge to keep things running, which avoids the need to pay more than just the part replacement cost."
- Jeff Bond
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Volatility is your Best Friend

"I started investing in equity mutual funds about 6 months before the big crash in 1987. Much like you, with little invested at the time, and being in my mid-20s, I was too busy to worry about it. Over the years, I saw volatility as a huge friend and helper to my dollar cost averaging."
- Patrick Brennan
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Vanguard’s Transfer on Death Plan Kit

"I am glad I learned of the change and that sharing the change was helpful. Best, Bill"
- William Perry
Read more »

Retirement Plan

"I got half way through it before giving up."
- Dan Smith
Read more »

Forget the 4% rule.

"That's pretty much the gist of it, and it's something I have personal experience with. Before retiring, I purchased a ten-year term annuity to cover all my essential spending — and I really can't emphasise enough the peace of mind this has given me compared to drawing down from my portfolio for those expenses. It's simply like getting a paycheck every month. No hassle, no worry. I'm now reasonably certain I'll purchase a lifetime annuity when this one matures in ten years, because of the confidence a guaranteed income gives you to actually spend."
- Mark Crothers
Read more »

Sector Fund by Stealth

I'VE RECENTLY MADE the most significant change to my own portfolio in thirty five years. For the first time I've moved away from pure market-cap investing, tilting meaningfully toward Europe and Southeast Asia and bringing my US technology concentration down to around fifteen percent. I'm retired. I don't need to chase the outperformance that concentration might deliver, and I don't need the potential volatility that comes with it. This is a personal position rather than any kind of recommendation; it's nothing more than a risk management decision made at a point in life where I simply don't need the risk. What prompted it was a growing discomfort with something I suspect many everyday investors haven't fully reckoned with: the S&P 500 is no longer quite the animal it once was. A broad market index fund casts a wide net across the economy, and the S&P 500, which tracks the 500 largest US businesses by market value, has long been held up as the sensible default: low cost, well diversified, a bet on the whole rather than any one part of it. A sector fund works differently; it makes a deliberate, concentrated bet on a specific industry. If you believe technology is going to outperform the market as a whole, it gives you the ability to concentrate your capital into exactly the sector your research or gut instinct suspects is going to be the place to be and let it run. The theory behind each is straightforward enough. A broad market fund captures a larger slice of the investment universe and is generally considered the lower-risk path. A sector fund comes with a well-understood trade-off: higher potential returns in good times, sharper drawdowns when sentiment turns. Investors who consciously choose a technology sector fund know what they're signing up for. The risk profile is understood, accepted, and priced into the decision. The problem is that the line between these two things has become a bit fuzzy, and most everyday investors haven't noticed. A handful of technology and technology-related companies (Apple, Microsoft, Nvidia, Amazon, Meta, Alphabet) have grown so dominant in their market valuations that they now represent a disproportionate share of the entire index. During the last year, the top ten holdings have accounted for roughly a third of the total weight of all 500 companies. The mechanism behind this is simply how the index works. The S&P 500 is market-cap weighted, meaning the bigger the company, the bigger its slice of the pie. As technology companies scaled their dominance through the 2010s and into the 2020s, their weight within the index ballooned accordingly. The index didn't change its rules; the market just rewarded one particular group of companies so heavily that they came to dominate the scoreboard. This means the investor who bought the S&P 500 believing they were spreading risk broadly across the American economy (energy, healthcare, financials, industrials, consumer staples) owns something that looks quite different to the story they were sold. You buy five hundred companies and a third of your money lands in ten stocks, most of them operating in the same broad technological ecosystem. That is a concentration risk, whether it is labelled as one or not. It's a sector fund “light”, acquired by stealth through the natural mechanics of market-cap weighting. The issue is that millions of everyday investors are carrying a version of that same risk without necessarily knowing it. Although I've used the S&P 500 as an example here, it isn't alone. Most broad-based indexes including developed world trackers will exhibit the same characteristics to varying degrees, because the same companies sit near the top of those indexes too. The MSCI World, often marketed as the global diversifier, allocates somewhere in the region of seventy percent to US equities, and within that, the familiar names reappear. You can cross borders on paper without ever really leaving the room. None of this is an argument against the S&P 500. The concentration reflects real, earned dominance; these companies grew to the top of the index because they genuinely deserved to. And whether my reallocation turns out to be the right call is genuinely unknowable. The concentrated index could continue to outperform for another decade and I'll have left returns on the table, a real possibility I've made my peace with. The point isn't that I've found the correct answer. The point is that I had the information to make a considered choice, weighed it against my own circumstances, and acted accordingly. That's all any investor can do. The uncomfortable truth is that a great many people haven't been given the chance to do the same. They're holding a product that has quietly changed its character, and nobody has thought to mention it. Better information doesn't guarantee better decisions, but it at least puts the decision where it belongs: with the person whose money it is. ___ Mark Crothers is a retired small business owner from the UK with a keen interest in personal finance and simple living. Married to his high school sweetheart, with daughters and grandchildren, he knows the importance of building a secure financial future. With an aversion to social media, he prefers to spend his time on his main passions: reading, scratch cooking, racket sports, and hiking.
Read more »

When Your Pastime Takes Ownership

"Clew bay, a wonderful part of the country, there's a great view from Croagh Patrick down onto the islands…I'm jealous, a much better use of a sunny day than trying to wrestle with hawthorn bushes with two inch thorns... I'm cut to pieces!"
- Mark Crothers
Read more »

Actually, Lets NOT Forget the 4% Rule – as Posted Yesterday 3/6/26

"Dan, I only listened to the first one minute of this 50 minute video. He says it perfectly in that one minute ! My impression is that people are WAY WAY over concerned about running out of money. Unless you are foolish, stupid, or have the worst luck imaginable, it seems like it’s a very hard thing to do ! There are no gold medals, not even a participation award (we are in 2026 after all ! ), for being the richest person in the graveyard."
- Mark Bergman
Read more »

Tax Smart Retirement

A POPULAR JOKE about retirement is that it can be hard work. That’s because financial planning is like a jigsaw puzzle, and retirement often means rearranging the pieces. In the past, I’ve discussed two key pieces of that puzzle: how to determine a sustainable portfolio withdrawal rate and how to decide on an effective asset allocation. But there’s one more piece of the puzzle to contend with: taxes. Especially if you’re planning to retire on the earlier side, it’s important to have a tax plan. When it comes to tax planning for retirement, there’s one key principle I see as most important, and that’s the idea that in retirement, the goal is to minimize your total lifetime tax bill. That’s important because a fundamental shift occurs the day that retirement arrives: In contrast to our working years, when taxes are, to a large degree, out of our control, in retirement, taxes are much more within our control. By choosing which investments to sell and which accounts to withdraw from, retirees have the ability to dial their income—and thus their tax rate—up or down in any given year. The challenge, though, is that tax planning can be like the game Whac-A-Mole. Choose a low-tax strategy in one year, and that might cause taxes to run higher in a future year. That’s why—dull as the topic might seem—careful tax planning is important. To get started, I recommend this three-part formula: Step 1 The first step is to arrange your assets for tax-efficiency. This is often referred to as “asset location.” Here’s an example: Suppose you’ve decided on an asset allocation of 60% stocks and 40% bonds. That might be a sensible mix, but that doesn't mean every one of your accounts needs to be invested according to that same 60/40 mix. Instead, to help manage the growth of your pre-tax accounts, and thus the size of future required minimum distributions, pre-tax accounts should be invested as conservatively as possible. On the other hand, if you have Roth assets, you’d want those invested as aggressively as possible. Your taxable assets might carry an allocation that’s somewhere in between. If you can make this change without incurring a tax bill, it’s something I’d do even before you enter retirement. Step 2 How can you avoid the Whac-A-Mole problem referenced above? If you’re approaching retirement, a key goal is to target a specific tax bracket. Then structure things so your taxable income falls into that same bracket more or less every year. By smoothing out your income in this way from year to year, the goal is to avoid ever falling into a very high tax bracket. To determine what tax rate to target, I suggest this process: Look ahead to a year in your late-70s, when your income will include both Social Security and required minimum distributions from your pre-tax retirement accounts. Estimate what your income might be in that future year and see what marginal tax bracket that income would translate to. In doing this exercise, don’t forget other potential income sources. That might include part-time work, a pension, an annuity or a rental property. And if you have significant taxable investment accounts, be sure to include interest from bonds. Then, for simplicity, subtract the standard deduction to estimate your future taxable income. Suppose that totaled up to $175,000. Using this year’s tax brackets, that would put your income in either the 24% marginal bracket (for single taxpayers) or 22% (married filing jointly). You would then use this as your target tax bracket. Step 3 With your target tax bracket in hand, the next step would be to make an income plan for each year. The idea here is to identify which accounts you’ll withdraw from to meet your household spending needs while also adhering to your target tax bracket. This isn’t something you’d map out more than one year in advance. Instead, it’s an exercise you’d repeat at the beginning of each year, using that year’s numbers. What might this look like in practice? Suppose you’re age 65, retired and not yet collecting Social Security. In this case, your income—and thus your tax bracket—might be quite low. To get started, you’d want to withdraw enough from your tax-deferred accounts to meet your spending needs but without exceeding your target tax bracket. This would then bring you to a decision. If you’ve taken enough out of your tax-deferred accounts to meet your spending needs and still haven’t hit your target tax rate, then the next step would be to distribute an additional amount from your pre-tax accounts. But with this additional amount, you’d complete a Roth conversion, moving those dollars into a Roth IRA to grow tax-free from that point forward. How much should you convert? The answer here involves a little bit of judgment but is mostly straightforward: You’d convert just enough to bring your marginal tax bracket up into the target range. Some people prefer to go all the way to the top of their target bracket, while others prefer to back off a bit. The most important thing is just to get into the right neighborhood. What if, on the other hand, you’ve taken enough from your pre-tax accounts to reach your target tax rate, but that still isn’t enough to meet your spending needs? In that case, you wouldn’t take any more from your pre-tax accounts, and you wouldn’t complete any Roth conversions. Instead, you’d turn to your taxable accounts, where the applicable tax brackets will almost certainly be lower. Capital gains brackets currently top out at just 20%. Thus, for the remainder of your spending needs, the most tax-efficient source of funds will be your taxable account. What if you aren’t yet age 59½? Would that upend a plan like this? A common misconception is that withdrawals from pre-tax accounts entail a punitive 10% penalty. While that’s true, it isn’t always true, and there’s more than one way around it. One exception allows withdrawals from a workplace retirement plan like a 401(k) as long as you leave that employer at age 55 or later. In that case, as long as you don’t roll over the account to an IRA, you’d be free to take withdrawals without penalty. If you’re retiring before age 55, you’ll want to learn about Rule 72(t). This allows for withdrawals from pre-tax accounts at any age, as long as you agree to what the IRS refers to as substantially equal periodic payments (SEPP) from your pre-tax assets. The SEPP approach definitely carries restrictions, but if you’re pursuing early retirement, and the bulk of your assets are in pre-tax accounts, this might be just the right solution.   Adam M. Grossman is the founder of Mayport, a fixed-fee wealth management firm. Sign up for Adam's Daily Ideas email, follow him on X @AdamMGrossman and check out his earlier articles.
Read more »

Home Tax Tips

IF YOU OWN a home or are planning to buy one, there are a few things you need to know from the tax standpoint that could save you money: 1. Mortgage Interest If you have a mortgage, you can typically deduct the interest you pay on the loan up to $750,000 ($1,000,000 if taken before December 16, 2017) but only if you itemize your deductions (schedule A) You can also deduct points you paid if you itemize. Many people miss deducting points on their tax returns when they purchase a house, but you have to meet some criteria like:
  1. The points relate to a mortgage to buy, build or improve your principal residence
  2. Points were reasonable amount charged in that area
  3. You provide funds (at or before closing) at least equal to the points charged
  4. The points clearly show on the settlement statement
In general, points to get a new mortgage or to refinance an existing mortgage are deducted ratably over the term of the loan.  Note that the deductible points not included on Form 1098 (the mortgage interest form) should be entered on Schedule A (Form 1040), Itemized Deductions, line 8c “Points not reported to you on Form 1098.” 2. Property taxes Property taxes can be deducted on your tax return if you itemize deductions. The total amount of taxes (including state and local income taxes) is capped at $40,400 for 2026. This cap is temporary and will increase by 1% annually through 2029 before reverting to $10,000 in 2030. If you make between $500k to $600k of modified adjusted gross income, the $40.4k deduction is reduced by 30% for each dollar you make. At $600k MAGI, the deduction drops to $10k, potentially raising marginal tax rates to 45.5% (!) for singles due to “SALT torpedo” if you are in the $500-600k range. If you are at that range, it’s recommended to mitigate this by lowering AGI/MAGI by maximizing pre-tax 401(k)/403(b), HSA, FSA contributions, timing RSU sales, tax loss harvesting, or deferring income/accelerating expenses for business owners. 3. Improvements Improvements are significant enhancements made to your home that increase its value. Many people overpay on taxes when they ultimately sell their house because they don’t keep track of these improvements. Here are some examples provided by the IRS: > Putting an addition on your home > Replacing an entire roof > Paving your driveway > Installing central air conditioning > Rewiring your home > Building a new deck > Kitchen upgrades > Lawn sprinkler system > New siding > Built in appliances > Fireplace Now, these costs aren’t deducted, but they are added to your home’s cost basis. This could lead to lower capital gains taxes when you sell your property (more on this later). Repairs, on the other hand, don’t impact your basis and don’t affect your taxes (e.g. repairing a broken fixture, patching cracks, etc) You will need to document every improvement, as this can help you save money on taxes. Keep your receipts and invoices (upload them to Google Drive) and record the dates and descriptions of the work done. Taxes when selling your house When you sell your house, here’s the formula: Selling price  > Selling expenses (like realtor fees) > Adjusted cost basis (how much you purchased it for + all these capital improvements I talked about above + any closing costs you paid when you acquired the home (legal fees, recording, survey, stamp taxed, title insurance) = Gain/Loss You will need to pay capital gains tax if there is a gain, but, luckily there is a gain exclusion (Section 121 exclusion) that can also help you save on taxes: 4. Gain exclusion If you sell your primary residence, you may be able to exclude up to $250,000 ($500,000 for married) of the gain from taxes if you meet some conditions. > Ownership (must have owned the home for at least 24 months within the 5 years prior to sale. For married couples only one spouse needs to meet this requirement) > Residence (you must have used the home as your main residence for at least 24 non-consecutive months during the 5 years before the sale. For married couples both spouses must meet requirements. > Look-back (you must not have claimed the exclusion on another home within the 2 years before this sale) Now, many people don’t know this but there is actually a partial exemption.  1. Work related move (i.e. you started a new job at least 50 miles farther from home) 2. Health related move (you moved to obtain, provide, or facilitate care for yourself or a family member) 3. Unforeseeable events (casualty, divorce, death, financial difficulty) 4. Special circumstances So, instead of claiming the full exclusion, you can exclude a prorated portion of the $250,000/$500,000 limit based on how long you owned and lived in the home. By the way, you can rent out a home for 2 years and still qualify for the exemption, as long as you lived there for the required period before selling (many people do this). 5. Tax example selling a home You bought a home for $200,000 (including all other costs) in 2018. You built a new deck, new roof and siding totaling $50,000. You now sold your home for $500,000. You are single. Selling costs are $20,000 (agent fees, etc) Sale price: $500,000 -$20,000 of selling costs (200,000 + 50,000) = -$250,000 (adjusted basis) Total Gain = 230,000 Exclusion = $250,000. Total taxes paid = $0. But what if you didn’t keep track of all your renovation costs like new siding or a deck? You would’ve had to pay taxes on $20,000 of capital gains!  Overall, knowing how these things work can literally save you thousands in taxes. Do you have any tips with homeownership? Share some in the comments!   Bogdan Sheremeta is a licensed CPA based in Illinois with experience at Deloitte and a Fortune 200 multinational.
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Get Educated

Manifesto

NO. 21: A HIGH income makes it easier to grow wealthy. But no matter how much we earn, we’ll struggle to amass a healthy nest egg—unless we learn to spend less than we earn.

humans

NO. 70: FOCUS on the negative and we’ll feel miserable, while focusing on the positive can boost our mood. Suffering through a long workout? Imagine how good breakfast will taste afterwards. Upset because stocks are struggling? Focus on how well the rest of your portfolio is holding up, or on how your nest egg is worth so much more than it was five years ago.

act

REVISIT YOUR DEBTS. Think of borrowed money as a negative investment: Instead of making you money, it’s costing you. If you have high-cost debt, paying it off—or replacing it with lower-cost debt—should be a top priority. What about lower-cost debt? That might also be worth paying off, especially if the alternative is to hold bonds or cash.

Truths

NO. 12: WE STRUGGLE with self-control and rely on tricks to compensate. To limit spending, we shift money from our checking account to accounts we deem untouchable. To force ourselves to save, we sign up for payroll contributions to our 401(k). We adopt rules such as “save all income from the second job” and “never dip into capital.”

What we don’t do

Manifesto

NO. 21: A HIGH income makes it easier to grow wealthy. But no matter how much we earn, we’ll struggle to amass a healthy nest egg—unless we learn to spend less than we earn.

Spotlight: Health

What Do You Do When Your PCP Closes Their Office

I had my regularly scheduled doctor’s appointment for this quarter last week.  At the end of the appointment, my Primary Care Physician  informed me that she was closing her office on February 1st, 2025.  She gave me a document to give my new physician, so they could transfer my medical records, covering the last 10 years.
What has your experience been with issues like this?  I have to ask it has happened to other HD readers.

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Don’t Go Breaking My Heart

Love and heartbreak are human experiences.  Heartbreak is not restricted to the end of a relationship. It can be unrequited love, the death of a loved one, divorce, unmet expectations we have of another. Or other severe emotional conditions.
Harvard Medical School recently published an article about a phenomenon known as Broken Heart Syndrome. It is a real condition known as Stress Cardiomyopathy or Takotsubo syndrome, and can be deadly. But most people recover quickly without any long lasting effects.

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Stock Therapy

PUBLIC SPEAKING WAS my nemesis throughout my academic career. Though I found it frightening, I’d always been able to tough my way through the lectures and avoid a full-blown anxiety attack. Then, during a theories of psychotherapy seminar for psychiatry residents, the panic broke through.
Though only my first diagnosable episode, it portended an affliction far more sinister. It was a premorbid symptom of an underlying depression that would topple my career, derail my investment ambitions,

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When It’s Urgent

EVEN THOUGH I’M NOT a doctor, I’ve been around medicine all my life. My father was a general practitioner and I spent my career in hospital administration. I had administrative oversight over three emergency departments of varying sizes. Based on my experience, here are 10 recommendations that may improve your experience should you need to visit an emergency room:
1. If you use the emergency room (ER) for a non-acute medical condition, bring a book.

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Picking Plans

HAVING LEFT the nine-to-five world, I face a decision: What to do about health insurance? I’m a single, generally healthy millennial. Historically, I’ve not run up major medical bills. But as with the financial markets, past performance doesn’t guarantee future outcomes. Here are the five options I’ve been considering:
1. Continue COBRA. When I left my job, I kept my old employer’s health plan, but I have to pay the full cost of coverage.

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Angry at IRMAA

I’M AMAZED BY the opinions expressed by some retirees about the Medicare premium surcharge known as IRMAA, short for income-related monthly adjustment amount. Is it really unfair for higher-income older Americans to pay larger premiums for Medicare Part B and Part D? Many people think so.

IRMAA was part of 2003’s Medicare Modernization Act and took effect in 2007. The threshold at which IRMAA kicks in for a couple is four times higher than the median household income for Americans age 65 and older.

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Spotlight: Marsh

It’s Taken a Lifetime

I'M TOO EMBARRASSED to reveal how long it took my wife and me to prepare our wills. We knew this important task was near the top of almost every financial “to do” list—a list that, it seems, we’ve spent our adult lives slowly working our way through. We’d discussed the details of our wills, including the crucial decision of who would care for our minor child in the event both of us died. Despite this, we procrastinated. When we finally met with an attorney and signed the papers, it was a relief to mark it off the list. While we were at it, we drew up advance directives to allow others to make legal and medical decisions for us if we became incapacitated. These documents let us have a hand in those decisions by making our wishes known beforehand. I’d learned from my father’s final illness how advance directives can ease a family’s burden during an already-stressful time. I also added letters of instruction to help my family settle my affairs. Included in these are legacy letters with the words of love that I want my family to remember me by. The reality is, most of us aren’t thinking or speaking clearly at the time we leave this world. I’ve put my thoughts on paper now, before dementia or serious illness renders me unable to. What else has been on our to-do list? One of our running family jokes is that it’s okay to die, just don’t get sick or sustain a serious injury. As a precaution, I’ve always had some disability insurance through my employer, though probably not enough. A severe medical problem can be a double whammy to a family’s finances. Earlier in our adult lives, a loss of one income, plus a boatload of medical expenses, could have sunk us. Now, we can fall back on our investments, but we probably weren’t smart about the amount of risk we took earlier on. On the other hand, we made a good decision when our daughter was born. My wife and I each bought term life insurance. Our goal was to cover the loss of income if one of us died. At the time, my wife and I worked side by side at the same physical therapy clinic. Because we drew essentially the same salary, we purchased policies with equivalent death benefits. My wife went part-time after the birth of our daughter, and then to one day a month a few years later. Even so, we’ve kept the original policies. Her current income is just a fraction of the previous amount, but her value to our family is huge. I want sufficient coverage to replace part of the contribution she now provides. The policy premiums have bought us both peace of mind. [xyz-ihs snippet="Mobile-Subscribe"] We’ve made some other wise moves—which perhaps balance out some of our earlier negligence. Most important, we’re in the habit of spending less than our income. Among other things, that provides us cash for unexpected expenses. Our emergency fund keeps us from having to reach for a credit card to pay for a new water heater or major auto repair. Controlling our spending also lets us save money for retirement. Even so, we could have done a better job if we’d started earlier. We delayed investing until our mid-30s. By showing up late to the starting line, we potentially missed out on a decade or more of compounding. A timelier start might have given us a more comfortable retirement and perhaps even the option to retire early. At this juncture, we’ve paid off all debt. We wanted to lower our fixed costs, especially as we look ahead to retirement. Some argue you’ll make more if you invest any extra cash. That may be true. But for us, there’s no debate. Even if it’s not always the optimal choice, we’d rather be debt-free. We think that eliminating debt lowers our overall risk. In addition, we strive to give away part of our income. We try to be thankful for what we have, and to show it by giving to our church and to those in need. Our family’s plan for managing our finances and the risks we face has been a work in progress, but it feels like we’ve finally made it through the to-do list. The pieces are now in place, but they didn’t get there all at once. We’re just glad a calamity didn’t befall us when one of the pieces was missing. Ed Marsh is a physical therapist who lives and works in a small community near Atlanta. He likes to spend time with his church, with his family and in his garden thinking about retirement. His favorite question to ask a young person is, "Are you saving for retirement?" Check out Ed's earlier articles. [xyz-ihs snippet="Donate"]
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Spending Their Future

WHY DO SOME PEOPLE save more for retirement than others, even when their income is the same? It turns out that a difference in spending behavior, rather than a larger salary, may separate better savers from those who struggle to set aside funds for their future. The Employee Benefit Research Institute and J.P. Morgan Asset Management joined forces to examine the spending and saving behavior of 10,000 households. The households, which were analyzed by age cohort, were divided into three groups based on the percentage of salary each contributed to a 401(k) plan. In the bottom 25%, low savers sock away about 2% to 3% of their income. Middling savers—those in the middle 50%—save about 5% to 6%. High savers, in the top 25%, start by contributing about 9% of salary and increase that amount as they get closer to retirement. The researchers then compared the salaries of low and middling savers, and found that the two groups earn about the same. Yet, even though there’s only a small difference in salary between low and middling savers, at all ages middling savers sock away about three percentage points more toward retirement than low savers. This difference is meaningful down the road, as the two groups approach retirement age. Compared to low savers, middling savers accumulate twice as much by age 60. What drags down low savers and keeps them from achieving the same results as middling savers, who earn an equivalent salary? The answer is spending. Low savers spend about 2% to 3% more of their salary than middling savers, especially when they’re younger. This difference in spending may account for the additional savings that middling savers set aside for their golden years. The bulk of the difference consists of increased spending on housing, transportation, and food and beverages. Throughout their working years, low savers consistently spend more on these three categories than middling savers. Spending on other needs, such as education and clothes, is similar, while low savers spend slightly less on travel compared to middling savers. It seems that, for some workers, spending is the culprit siphoning off money that should be used for savings. But it isn’t clear what’s driving this higher spending. Is it a desire to satisfy today’s immediate wants, such as a fancier car or pricey restaurant meals? Or do the necessities of life just cost more for some people, and therefore hamper their ability to save?
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Just Enough

PHYSICAL THERAPY IS a teaching profession. I am the teacher and my patients are the students. They come to me with a problem in need of a solution. I help them find the answer. Most of my patients have never faced the daunting challenge of overcoming a physical disability caused by injury or disease. They don’t know where to begin. Many have also never put in the sustained effort needed to achieve a tough goal. I’m tasked with teaching them both—giving them the knowledge that they need to get where they want to go and encouraging them to put forth the effort required to get there. I know how they feel. I had never really settled on a serious career goal until my early 30s, when I decided to return to college to train to become a physical therapist. At about the same time, I decided to become an “expert in investing.” I didn’t know at the time what that meant, but I figured I needed to be one so I could retire one day. I did know that I knew nothing about investing, and would need to begin from scratch. But first, physical therapy. I learned the basics, about muscles and joints, nerves and organs, and about the chemistry of the body. I went on to learn how all the parts work together to produce movement and allow us to interact with the world around us. Finally, I learned treatment strategies to help restore the bodies of those who need physical therapy to regain what they’ve lost because of a joint injury or a stroke. I landed my first physical therapy job at age 36. I didn’t know it then, but I was following the centuries-old, three-stage classical model of learning. In the grammar stage, the basics are learned through memorization and review. In the logic stage, the individual parts are put together and put into practice. In the rhetoric stage, the student is ready to share knowledge with others. I think about this three-step process when I’m treating patients. Let’s say that disease has left a person a little too weak to get up from a chair by herself. She has done this seemingly simple task all her life without thinking about how she does it, and can’t figure out why it has become so complicated. Standing up from a chair is a big goal for her. It’s the beginning point so she can get on with the rest of her day. She looks to me to teach her how to make that first big move. [xyz-ihs snippet="Mobile-Subscribe"] Initially, we work on the basics—learning the right exercises to strengthen the right muscles and how to reposition the body to gain a mechanical advantage. We move on to putting that knowledge into practice, and one day she rises independently from sitting to standing. She has an epiphany. What was complex becomes simple. The next thing you know, she’s teaching her friends what the nice PT taught her. Is she an expert in physical therapy? No, but she doesn’t have to be. She knows just enough to achieve her goal. I followed this same classical learning model when I turned my attention to becoming that investment expert I so desired to be. The most important basics I had already learned from my parents. I was a good saver and a frugal spender. These behaviors allowed me to max out contributions to the 401(k) that came with my first PT job and, soon after, my first IRA. Along with my wife, I continued to learn basic information by taking a community college night course in personal finance and through reading some books and online material. We both learned about the importance of diversification, proper allocation and low investment fees, and about the astounding results of compound interest. Over the course of several years, we learned to put this information into practice by choosing low-cost, broad-based index funds for various asset classes. As the years went by, we saw our knowledge and our portfolios grow. I had my own epiphany, and again the complex became simple. I eventually realized that I knew enough to show others the right path to take them a long way toward retirement. Twenty-four years after making my first investment, I am perhaps four or five years from full retirement. I am in the midst of my current education project, learning the best strategies to generate income and save on taxes during retirement. My wife, also a PT, is down to working one day a month, but spends many long hours helping family members who depend on us. Have I become that investment expert I thought I needed to be? Hardly. But like my patients, I don’t have to know all there is to know. Instead, I need to know just enough to achieve my retirement goal. Ed Marsh is a physical therapist who lives and works in a small community near Atlanta. He likes to spend time with his church, with his family and in his garden thinking about retirement. His favorite question to ask a young person is, "Are you saving for retirement?" [xyz-ihs snippet="Donate"]
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Looking to Leap

I'M THINKING ABOUT retirement—again. But this time, it isn’t my retirement, but rather my wife’s. I earn our family’s primary paycheck, so I’m usually the focus of our discussions when we sit down to scrutinize the numbers and comb through the calendar, looking for a date when we should each hang up our physical therapist’s goniometer. Even though I earn the bigger income, my wife has diligently worked just as long as I have, albeit in a changing capacity. In our 30s, we each began second careers as physical therapists at more or less the same time. I talked her into a blind date the week I started my first physical therapy job. She graduated PT school a couple of months later, and began work shortly thereafter. For five of the first seven years of our marriage, we spent most of our work days side-by-side in the same outpatient clinic. After our daughter was born, my wife’s hours on the job dwindled, while her responsibilities at home increased. On weekdays, she now applies her experience as a former high school biology teacher to instructing our daughter at home. On top of that, she acts as caregiver to family members, including round-the-clock on-call assistance for any needs that arise. And then, of course, there’s the usual tasks involved in keeping up a home. I help, but the brunt of the burden falls on my wife. Despite her hectic schedule, my wife continues to make a small but significant contribution at our workplace. She gives a few hours each month, plus some holidays, at our acute care hospital. Every few months, I ask if she’s ready to retire from her work away from home. My question brings a thoughtful expression, then the same reply of “not yet.” Our ongoing conversation about our respective retirement dates would have been rare a couple of generations ago. Planning for a joint retirement is a fairly recent phenomenon. Retirement planning was once a mostly solo endeavor, even for married couples. In most families, the husband was the sole breadwinner. The income side of the family’s economic life revolved around his career, with the wife playing a supporting role. The latter part of the 20th century witnessed a huge demographic shift. Women started pouring into the workforce. The percentage of women working doubled from 34% in 1950 to 60% in 2000. Last year, the figure stood at about 57%, and was even higher, at 60%, for women in the pre-retirement ages of 55 to 64. With dual incomes came a new challenge for couples—how to coordinate two retirements. Researchers note that retirement is increasingly complex, with variables that include when to call it quits, whether to move or not, how to use our time in retirement, and the implications of declining health. Doubling those factors with the addition of another person compounds the planning intricacies. Not all couples are adept at this financial dance, though they may not readily admit it. Seven out of 10 respondents to Fidelity Investments' 2021 couples and money study say they communicate at least very well about financial issues. But a deeper look at specific retirement topics reveals 48% disagree on the retirement date. Also, 51% are out of sync on the size of the nest egg necessary to retire, and a significant number lose sleep thinking about it. Additional worries are retirement health care expenses, outliving savings and being derailed by economic conditions beyond their control. The Fidelity survey also found gender continues to influence the planning partnership, with men more frequently taking the lead on longer-term retirement and investment planning. But in our case, the situation is more nuanced, because my wife has more of the planner personality. Against this backdrop, my wife and I dance to our own beat. Still, we’re not far out of step with other couples as we ponder if we’re retirement ready. We share the familiar financial concerns about income and insurance during retirement, along with the subjective query: Will retirement make me happier? I’m not yet ready for a permanent vacation, but how does my wife answer those questions? Income. When we launched our life together, my wife and I earned essentially the same amount. We also both started saving and investing for retirement with our first paychecks, kicking it off with 401(k)s and then soon adding IRAs. In the beginning, though, we followed different paths in choosing our funds. We even compared performance in a friendly competition. Eventually, however, we came to view our individual accounts as part of the same portfolio, a perspective that aids optimal planning. While I tend to take the lead in longer-term planning, my wife is thoroughly versed on our overall money plan and intimately involved in every decision. She also handles the daily money chores, and knows how much money flows in and out of our household accounts. For these reasons, she’s aware that the loss of her income wouldn’t create financial headaches. Insurance. My employer currently provides health insurance for my family and me. Even if I go part-time, we’re still covered. If I decide to retire fulltime at age 65—a little over three years’ away—Medicare will insure me. But at that juncture, my wife will be 62 and not yet eligible for Medicare. We’ll need to buy a private policy for her and our daughter, which we may pay for with my wife’s Social Security. According to Mike Piper’s Open Social Security calculator, 62 is the best age for her to claim, with me waiting until age 70. Emotion. When our young lives are weighed down with work, and retirement is a distant dream, it’s hard to imagine postponing the day we call it quits. Yet, when the moment arrives, the choice can bring indecision and even trepidation. The path ahead may appear greener, but who knows how much we’ll miss what we leave behind? My wife and I have a good bit of the interdependence—a “melding of the minds” in a relationship—that’s shown to be helpful during the shift to retirement. Still, I’m giving her room to decide when to give up her paycheck. Initially, she held onto her few hours of work as a caution and a comfort, just in case my income disappeared. Keeping a foot in the door would have allowed her to jump back in more easily. That concern should have faded as our savings grew, but old habits often die slowly. Maybe there’s still a sliver of uncertainty lurking in her mind. Her real hang up may be her feelings of guilt about leaving me to carry the weight by myself. But the weight isn’t solely on my shoulders. How does she retire from being a daughter, wife and mother? Even when she finally leaves her job behind, she’ll still only be half-retired. Ed Marsh is a physical therapist who lives and works in a small community near Atlanta. He likes to spend time with his church, with his family and in his garden thinking about retirement. His favorite question to ask a young person is, "Are you saving for retirement?" Check out Ed's earlier articles. [xyz-ihs snippet="Donate"]
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Almost There

After years of retirement planning, the day has indeed arrived—almost. I’ve recently become a part-timer, working just three days each week in the outpatient physical therapy clinic, plus one Saturday per month at the acute-care hospital. Though I may be just semi-retired, the load already feels a whole lot lighter. How so? For starters, I’m focusing less on gaining more from my job. Oh, I’m still keen to treat patients. That’s what drew me to physical therapy in the first place. But I’m stepping back from the sundry other jobs that have attached themselves to me. Instead, I’ll nudge the younger folks toward new responsibilities as I concentrate on giving my best to a shorter schedule. How short? I’ve trimmed my three workdays to eight hours each, with afternoons free for other pursuits. My brief week of short days feels like a perpetual weekend, with its mix of work and play. There are trade-offs, of course. Shorter hours leave me with less earned income. In exchange, I get more disposable time. How to spend it?  Home provides plenty of projects. My list is long, from a bedroom and bath renovation inside to demolishing and resurrecting storage buildings outside. Though I enjoy both the planning and the labor, I’ll probably employ a hybrid of do-it-yourself and hired help. Other tasks–like breaking up the concrete footing and floor of the old chicken house I tore down two years ago–I’ll have to tackle myself. There is little room for equipment, and manual laborers are scarce. My garden beckons as well, especially the vegetables. From the peas I plant in January to the tomatoes of summer, I have vegetables in the garden and on the table every month of the year. That’s not a boast, just the product of my passion for nurturing plants to grow and yield fruit, and my family’s appetite for their taste.  My wife reminds me, however, that work shouldn’t consume all our retirement time. She’s ready for some leisure, especially travel. Alas, there’s a hitch to her plans. Our mothers are closing in on the century mark. Each continues to live in her home, which we fully endorse, but require help from us. As a result, our wandering is tethered by familial responsibility. Between family pulling one hand and the lure of play the other, where’s the balance as my wife and I seek to find fun together? We’ve found part of the answer close to home. For the last couple of decades, my wife and I have sacrificed our shared time to donate to busy, separate schedules. We are ready to reclaim that time, beginning with sunrise walks on my days off work. The exercise is moderate, but the conversation supplies substantial emotional nourishment. I’m reminded of the “windshield time” of a long drive together.  For real food, we’re venturing farther afield. We both love a good barbeque joint, but our standard meal is heavy on lighter fare. Since quality restaurants are scarce in small-town Georgia, especially those that serve the kind of fresh ingredients we prefer, we’re prepared to drive. After polling friends, we compiled a list of restaurants to check out in the surrounding communities. We’ve heard of married couples scheduling “date nights” to get a break from home life, but we have never indulged–until now. If our local plans sound unambitious, then so will our travel itinerary. Yes, we’re now just partly-employed, with a lot more free time to devote to one of my wife’s loves. But as I indicated above, we feel bound to stay near home. We figure a five to six hour drive is the limit of our leash. Rather than sit home and sulk, we’re determined to ferret-out enough fun within this perimeter to keep us busy until our circumstances change. Our first area of focus is the locale where our daughter attends college. Her school sits atop a mountain overlooking the small city where my wife found her first physical therapy job. We’ve moved a few hours away, but make annual return trips. We've sampled nearly every attraction on offer there, but our current plan puts us on the hunt for different game.  Our new strategy calls for frequent, short trips to create an extended, intermittent vacation. Our main base is a cozy Airbnb with enough amenities to feel like a second home. It lies in a quiet neighborhood, 15 walking minutes from an ice cream shop and a few restaurants, and a short drive from dozens of others.  But its best feature is proximity to miles of hiking trails. A five-minute stroll puts us on a trail up the mountain. From there, we can choose to loop back to our start in an hour or two, or make a day of it. We can even wander over to the college campus for a chat with our daughter.  For my daughter’s Easter break from classes, we traveled to our new spot to keep her on site to prepare for final exams. We did most of the hiking while she did all of the studying, but one morning the three of us drove across town for a few hours’ scrambling over boulders beside a cascading stream. I won’t say the walk was on par with the wilder trails we’ve trod, but on the trip back to our lodging we stopped to dig into a decent Mediterranean lunch. This style of hiking has its appeal. Our new lifestyle may be termed “retirement-lite” by folks who have permanently replaced their work schedules with weekday tee times and travel plans, but it fits us well. It affords me a measure of the work that soothes my psyche, while providing my wife with temporary relief from her travel itch. And it gives us both more of the element that has been missing from our lives for too long–time with each other.
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Stellar Results

THE NATIONAL Aeronautics and Space Administration (NASA) has good reason to boast. Its programs serve as a catalyst to generate billions of dollars of economic activity that’s spread across all 50 states and the District of Columbia. Also, the transfer of NASA spinoff technologies and products to private businesses improves the lives of each of us in myriad ways. Along the way, it’s even put men on the moon—and plans to do so again, along with the first woman. A couple of years ago, NASA released a comprehensive analysis of the economic impact the space agency has had. It estimated that NASA’s 2019 budget of $21.5 billion spawned $64 billion of economic activity, and supported more than 312,000 good-paying jobs nationwide. In addition, the work of NASA engineers touches all of us. Whether it's an omega-3 fatty acid in baby formula or the memory foam that helps our aging bodies sleep well at night, there’s a good chance that NASA knowledge benefits us every day of our lives. In 2019 alone, the work of the agency’s personnel generated 85 new patent applications, and 122 new patents were approved. Many of these innovations eventually find their way into private businesses and American homes. NASA makes a strong argument for the economic benefits that accrue to Americans through its efforts. But as great as they are, I think there’s another economic star to celebrate in our lives—one that’s arguably delivered even greater financial benefits: the index fund. Its results have been an epic success since its introduction in 1976. The total amount invested in passively managed index funds eclipsed that in active funds for the first time this year, and for good reason: They outperform them. A recent report found that 95% of actively managed large-cap stock funds lagged their benchmark index over 20 years. A big reason index funds perform better is because they charge so much less, allowing investors to save an astronomical amount of money. Index funds helped us avoid a cumulative $357 billion in fund management fees from 1995 to 2020, according to S&P Dow Jones Indices. Their low expense ratios also put downward pressure on the fees charged by active funds, which have fallen 34% since 1996, according to the Investment Company Institute. Accumulating sufficient savings for retirement requires a massive effort, and we need every advantage we can get. The low cost of index funds helps us keep more money within our own orbit—and out of the pockets of active fund managers. That cost savings is a crucial part of the compounding that multiplies our money so it can support us in our later years. NASA is amazingly complex. Index funds are wonderfully simple. Yet, in their own way, they each deliver stellar results.
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